View Full Version : AMP9-PS - very hot chip!
kyleaudio
05-Feb-08, 13:51
i just finished building my amp-9 today after a small problem that i had, i accidentily put the smt diodes on the top of the board backwards, but i turned them all arround to the correct direction. i have good 5v at pins 13, 12 and 10, both led's are hooked up and working. for testing i only used channel 1 with an 8 ohm speaker hooked up. when i turned it on with no input i did notice if i put my ear up to the speaker there was a buzz sound, dont think that it is normal. but i then hooked up the input and i did get music that sounded ok (my small ta2020 sounds about twice as good tho) and after about 3 seconds of playing music at a volume that is about half power on my ta2020 the chip got very hot, i couldnt hold my finger on it for any more then a half second!
the kit is a low profile i am using a small 12v 1.5amp power supply for testing and for low volume testing i do not have a heat sink.
what is wrong? bad chip? something hooked up in-correctly? i have checked the board a couple times and everything looks ok.
kyleaudio
05-Feb-08, 13:54
also i just checked, at idle with no speaker load or input connected right away when i turn on the power the chip starts getting hot and about 1-15 seconds after i turn it on i cant keep my finger on it.
My experience is that this chip can get pretty hot, even on 12V...
This package delivers 4x100 watt, the TA2020 is the same package and delivers 2x25 watt. The TAA4100A delivers four times as much power to a double amount of channels.
No wonder it gets hot...
The chip also heats up quick when there's no load on the outputs.
What you should at least do is place resistors on the unused outputs and clip a small piece of aluminum on the heatslug with a http://www.kitchenconservatory.com/images/clipmag.jpg (preferrably an iron one...)
Than test again...
Ofcourse there could be something wrong, but it can't hurt to test under somewhat more chipfriendly circumstances....
Than measure the DC voltage on the outputs, when all the channels are under 150mV you're ok to connect speakers...
------X-max. can be several meters on any driver, too bad it can be done only once...------
kyleaudio
06-Feb-08, 04:59
yea, i guess that is true, i wasnt really thinking of the differances between the two chips. i do have an old xbox 360 heatsink that could probubally mount to the chip and test it out again.
are there any specific resistors that i should use on the outputs? large load resistors? unfortunatly most of my electronic stuff is at home in the us and i am way out here in japan, so right now i dont have any high wattage resistors, can i just check the voltages un-loaded? hopefuly everything works out ok.
also can this amp put out 100x4 on only a 12v power supply? i wouldnt think so, but cant hurt to ask. and is 1.5 amps enough? this power supply is just for testing, but it would be nice if i could just keep it there.
thanks, kyle.
Hi,
any resistor between 100 ohm and 1 Kohm is fine, when you go under 100 ohms it is better to take higher wattage...
The amp doesn't output 4x100 on a 12V supply indeed... you can find detailed info and measurements about this in the TAA4100A datasheet.
The 1,5A supply is really really slim, you can try, it also depends on the speaker load and output volume, but don't be surprised to hear heavy distortion in the bass peaks....
I would take at least 4A...
------X-max. can be several meters on any driver, too bad it can be done only once...------
In the resistors.
If I have a pair of channels I only use some of the time (meaning often there is no load attached)
Couldn't I just solder a 1k ohm resistor across the outputs of the 2 channels that are often open.
This would solve the problem when they were not connected, and when connected, a 4 ohm speaker would provide an effective load of 3.98 ohms.
Is there any reason not to do it this way?
The only reason would be that it's not good for the soundquality...
I think that it could have an effect on the bass, meaning any capacitance in the output section that is in series with the signal will result in a HP filter....
------X-max. can be several meters on any driver, too bad it can be done only once...------
avocadopicker
22-Feb-11, 20:39
Just for anybody building AMP9-PS, I've just completed my first (decided to go 2 x AMP9 initially prior to building my 4 x Truepath when I have time and more confidence). At first power up, either muted or unmuted, the chip got untouchably hot after about 30 seconds, however when I connected a load, not only did it sound great, but significantly cooler too, so I'm confirming V-bro's suggestion regarding using a dummy load to make the TAA4100A behave properly.
It seems like you are running it in AM mode, as with no load, the chip should not get hot at all.
Is this with or without a heatsink?
avocadopicker
23-Feb-11, 07:51
Hi Scratchy - I haven't deliberately jumpered it for AM mode - I assumed that the default no-jumpered state is AM off, however I haven't yet attached heat sink - the AI suggests that for testing/low-stress use the heat sink is not really necessary. I'm going to try dummy loads for the unused (as yet) channels to see if that allows cooler running. Will certainly use heat sink when in proper use (I may not be able to reach Truepath sound levels but I certainly want to exercise the Orions properly!)
And again DON'T JUMPER AM MODE WITH THE AMP ON!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
It will kill the Tripath chip!
Thing is, a vague acquantance of mine came by last week with his AMP9-B and it is dead due to this reason... :"Oh...I didn't know that!" was what he said.....sigh... some people just don't read....
And again DON'T JUMPER AM MODE WITH THE AMP ON!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
It will kill the Tripath chip!
Thing is, a vague acquantance of mine came by last week with his AMP9-B and it is dead due to this reason... :"Oh...I didn't know that!" was what he said.....sigh... some people just don't read....
What is the differnce between the two modes? I really searched high and low but I can't find an understandable solution. What are the consequences when I enable AM-mode?
AM-mode makes it run in standard class AB mode, an option for car stereo head units to ensure good AM radio reception. Class T mode could scramble the reception if the amplifier and receiver unit are in the same small box. It is more or less a precation and key selling point to the car stereo industry. I have never had a problem to receive AM radio with any T-amp I have had...
In case you didn't know, class T switches in the same frequency domain as AM radio reception....
AM-mode makes it run in standard class AB mode, an option for car stereo head units to ensure good AM radio reception. Class T mode could scramble the reception if the amplifier and receiver unit are in the same small box. It is more or less a precation and key selling point to the car stereo industry. I have never had a problem to receive AM radio with any T-amp I have had...
In case you didn't know, class T switches in the same frequency domain as AM radio reception....
Aaaaah, thanks! I already thought of AM-radio but I never imagined a amplifier could interfere with radio signals. So there is no difference in performance between the two modes?
Well, there is a big difference in efficiency...
The amp runs much hotter in AM mode - hence my question.
The power output is actually derated when running in AM mode.
Sadly the AMP9 has no information in the Assembly Instructions as to what state the amp is in when the jumper is on or off.
Quite and oversight in my mind.
Now if you had the AMP9-Basic, then there is much information regrading the AM mode.
The function of the AM jumper pins was changed between versions.
http://www.41hz.com/forums/showthread.php?3289-AMP-9-Basic-Assembly-Instructions
avocadopicker
02-Mar-11, 08:39
Just fyi, with my (unjumpered) AMP9-PS, a nearby radio goes berserk when I switch on, so I'm assuming that AM mode is off by default. I'm using 18VAC supply, and have found that heat-sinking is a must, even with loads on all outputs and connected inputs - sounds great, but distortion sets in as the chip starts to overheat, before the protection shuts it down (probably takes 10-15 minutes).
AMP9-PS: AM mode on when jumpered.
AMP9-BASIC: AM mode on when jumper removed.
This amp DEFINITELY needs a heatsink, even in class T mode.
Why?
1] AMP6 uses TA2020, same package size as TAA4100A, but only two 25W channels in 4 ohms
2] AMP1,1-B, 5,10,10-B all use TA2022, same package as TAA4100A, but only two 100W channels in 4 ohms
3] AMP9 uses TAA4100A, four channels producing 100W per channel in to 4 ohms
It is SO much power from such a small package that even at over 90% efficiency there is too much to dissipate. But a small strip of aluminium is enough to sufficiently cool it.
kyleaudio
05-Mar-11, 23:28
ok, so its been a couple years since i last messed with my amp9 low pro, since then i got out of the navy and moved back home again. now i have more electronics stuff and tools availible! so first thing i did, i mounted that old xbox360 heat sink with some compound, it should be big enough, it is about 3" by 2.5" or so and the fins are about 1/2-3/4" long. i soldered in 330ohm resistors to the 3 unused channels and fired it up, the chip still gets very hot! i checked with an infrared thermometer and within about a minute or two of playing music, it was up to 125f and still climbing at a steady rate...
i looked into the am mode, i hadnt thought about that before. right now pin 9 does not have any jumpers on it, but i check with my dmm and pin 9 is grounded. should it be a ground? what should i read if am mode is off?
thanks, kyle.
As per V-bro above:
AMP9-PS: AM mode on when jumpered.
AMP9-BASIC: AM mode on when jumper removed.
You should not have a jumper on the AM mode pins for class T operation.
BTW, if you measured pin 9 with the amp powered up, then you are extremely lucky you did not blow the TAA4100A
ALWAYS, ALWAYS, ALWAYS power off the amp and make sure the PS is fully discharged before touching or jumpering the AM mode pins on any AMP9.
Many users here have blown up all sorts of amps with a volt-meter probe, accidentally touching & shorting pins and connections with the amp powered up.
BTW, I'm sure you have read the sticky at the top of this AMP9 forum and have installed a mute/unmute switch to ensure you are zeroing the DC offset on your amp when turning it on <wink>.
no, this is wrong.
No, it's correct. Please check the actual schematic for the amp9 instead of the datasheet.
It is however correct that with no load and no signal, AM mode will actually make the chip less hot in idle.
Tinwelint
06-Mar-11, 13:05
Please check the actual schematic for the amp9 instead of the datasheet.
This is nonsense. The datasheet is THE BIBLE for any chip, and moreover there isn't any schematic of the AMP9-BASIC v1.2.
It is however correct that with no load and no signal, AM mode will actually make the chip less hot in idle.
This is also nonsense. This imply that AM-mode (AB-class) is more efficent than T-class.
But well, i don't have to convince anybody. Take it easy man, and think free as i always say. I do, and I always make measurements. I'm just running my amp9 at volume and enjoying it. And it is nicely warm not hot as hell.
This is also nonsense. This imply that AM-mode (AB-class) is more efficent than T-class.
No, it doesn't. It means that without a load the chip cannot adjust bias in class-D mode and therefore you'll have large amounts of run off switching current bieng terminated within the chip.
Tinwelint
06-Mar-11, 13:39
well, i was referring to this:
It seems like you are running it in AM mode, as with no load, the chip should not get hot at all.
Is this with or without a heatsink?
AMP9-PS (high or low profile) has the AM mode jumper on the board directly connected to the TAA4100A chip. On AMP9-BASIC there is an external CMOS logic chip added which changes the function of the jumper 180 degrees!!!
So don't blindly follow the datasheet, I totally agree with Saturnus!!!
And yes, the efficiency of class T is much higher at max output, but definitely not at idle! The output filter does dissipate a bit of power from the idle switching frequency and this costs more energy than a class B power stage with no switching running at idle. Again I totally agree with Saturnus. I test these amps very frequenty and my amperes meter on my lab supply tells the sole truth....
If you want to determine AM mode then just hook up a scope to the chip outputs and see if the switching waveform is present there, simple...
kyleaudio
06-Mar-11, 15:05
Thanks scratchy, i'll try adding a mute/unmute switch and see if that helps. i did not test for am mode with it on, so no worries there.
how hot is too hot tho? the datasheet says that the typical free air operating temp is 25c/77f, i'm already passed that, it also says that the maximum free air temp is 85c/185f. over-temp protection comes on at 160c/320f (thats hot!). so how hot should i let this thing get before shutting down? is it safe to let it go up to over-temp if it gets there? this seems way too hot, i've been shutting it down at about 49c/120f (according to my cheap little infrared temp gun) just to be safe.
My AMP9 v1.1 barely gets warm in class D mode (I have not tried it in AM mode). It's warmer than the AMP6, but I certainly wouldn't call it hot.
http://www.41hz.com/forums/showthread.php?1593-Showcase-of-a-tiny-AMP9-B&p=16474#post16474
1157
Tinwelint
06-Mar-11, 22:11
Then that explains it doesn't it?? Logic high level when the jumper is open, which is analogue mode, AM mode...
http://i.imgur.com/faF96.jpg
Logic low level makes it operate in class T mode....
On the AMP9-PS the AM mode pin is coming straight from the tripath chip and is logic low by default. On the AMP9-Basic the level is logic high by default and pulled low by placing the jumper.
Aaargh confusing!! I am about to build two AMP9-B kits and I shall do the waveform tests again!!
Yes, it is what i was trying to say! :) Believe me, i was confused as you when i realized it, i double checked the schematic, followed the lines on the pcb testing the continuity and finally triple checked electric levels when all was mounted to be sure!!
Okay, but still from what I know and what you posted I was correct in the first place then....
avocadopicker
07-Mar-11, 03:38
Just a follow-up - I was concerned that my AMP9-PS seemed to run very hot in T mode, whether connected or not to input source and/or speaker loads, however, having fitted a substantial heatsink it gets barely warm, even when being given a good thrashing through my Orion+. As V-Bro said - a heatsink is a must.
Tinwelint
07-Mar-11, 10:06
I think we need some definate confirmation on his part if that is so. I'd also advice that in a future revision, the AM mode is skipped althogether.
I totally agree with you...
kyleaudio
09-Mar-11, 00:03
v-bro, good work on the am mode stuff, hopefully that'll clear things up for everyone. unfortunately i do not have a scope yet, but i double checked pin 7 with my meter and it is not grounded as i posted before. i'm not sure what i checked before. then i hooked my meter to pin 7 (pin 9 on the left side of the board) and ground, then fired it up. the highest voltage that i saw was about .1vdc, so my amp should not be in am mode.
i added a mute switch powered up the amp in mute then un-muted as said in the sticky. dc offset seems about the same as before, but they are very low, so no problem there. unfortunately tho, my amp is still getting very hot after about a minute running.
so why could my amp be running so hot? i've looked over the board many times and i dont see anything wrong, i'll attach a couple pictures, maybe one of you will see something that i have missed. i'd really like to get this thing going!
Sorry for taking this thread off-topic Kyle.
The AM mode discussion was mostly for the newer AMP9-B v1.2.
The AMP9-PS AM mode pins must be unjumpered for Class T operation - that's it.
You can check with an AM radio brought next to the amp.
There will be more interference when running in Class T mode <remember not to change the AM jumper while powered on>.
Those are good pictures, but they are too small to see any detail.
If you attached the pictures locally to the 41Hz forum, they are automatically resized smaller :-/
I suggest you upload the full size pictures to a hosting site like http://imgur.com and then paste the links here.
As for DC-offset auto-nulling, this feature is not on the AMP9-PS, since it does not have the comparator IC to assist in nulling the output voltage.
I have renamed this thread to AM9-PS to avoid any confusion between the Basic and PS versions (they are in-fact quite different animals).
I've moved the AM mode discussions for the Basic to a new thread & will add it to the stickies.
I've moved the AM mode discussions for the Basic to a new thread & will add it to the stickies.
Good one Scratchy!
And indeed the pics in more detail would be helpful....
kyleaudio
09-Mar-11, 17:32
ok, i gave the bottom of the board an alcohol bath to clean off all of the old flux, now you can see a little better.
http://i.imgur.com/fel20.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/IjmlK.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/myV85.jpg
scratchy, thanks for cleaning up the amp9-b stuff, but i dont blame then, i hadnt posted on here for quite a while! lol.
The bottom solders look pretty spiffy, but there are some still pretty dubious ones on the top side. That's all I can comment on, it does look as if it should be able to work fine.... but a little touch up here and there might bring change....
http://i.imgur.com/ZLKLn.jpg
kyleaudio
10-Mar-11, 04:36
well i went over every solder joint that i had cut (thanks for the advice on this, i have been soldering for years and never thought of this) and lots of others. the solder on that diode that your arrow is pointing to wasnt good, but i fixed that. powered up the amp and its still the same... i also checked each pin to the pin next to it on the chip and none are shorted to each other unless they are supposed to be. are there any voltages i should check?
Well, output resistances are a good test. They should be roughly between 40K and 90K, but the most important they should measure alike and be fairly steady. They may wander off slowly, but if they wander off very fast then usually some component in the output filter is not connecting well and this could cause oscillations causing the amp to overheat.
kyleaudio
10-Mar-11, 16:13
i checked the output resistances (after lifting the load resistors) with 3 meters. an old fluke 8000a a fluke 117 true rms and a chinese fluke 15b. i trust the accuracy of the chinese fluke more then the old guy, i just got it working yesterday, who knows when it was last calibrated. but the old fluke and chinese fluke pretty were pretty close to eachother reading (with the chinese fluke) ch1 71.1k ch2 71.3k ch3 71.4k ch4 71.7k. my 117 true rms however is reading about 32k on all channels. as you said, they did wander off a bit, but not much and it was pretty slow.
not sure which meter to trust. but thats what i got.
my readings had wondered off a bit after taking this picture.
http://i.imgur.com/qPjdx.jpg
kyleaudio
10-Mar-11, 21:31
yea... i wonder if there is something wrong with my chip?
At the start of the thread you mentioned you couldn't hold your finger on the chip for more than half a second. Then later on you applied a heatsink and you also at some point mentioned the dummyload resistors helped a bit.
Just exactly where are we now? Any chance you could measure the temperature? Maybe if we can create similar situations we can make a comparison test?
kyleaudio
10-Mar-11, 22:58
ok, without a heatsink the chip gets too hot to touch after about 10 seconds or so, with or without the resistors.
with the heatsink it takes longer, i've been checking the temp with an infrared temp gun and shutting it down at about 125f and it takes about a minute to get there. with the resistors, it takes a little bit longer, but not much. either way, from the time i turn it on until i shut it off, the temp climbs steadily and if i dont shut it down i'm sure it'll keep going.
i'm not sure how hot it'll go if i let it keep going, but i dont want to let it go too high and burn up.
right now i'll go do some timed tests with and without the heatsink and post the results.
125F is not too bad yet, that is 52C and you can easily let it get up to 80C on a heatsink without permanent damage. But it is too hot for certain!
Suspicious parts can be the two little diodes next to the TAA4100A which are responsible for the charge pump. Not a bad idea to preventively replace them. They cost so little you practically can't even write the price of one piece.
Then if it is possible it can be a good idea to have a look at the shape of the waveform it produces on all the channels. I have recently posted how it's supposed to look in the AM mode sticky thread. If you have or can borrow a scope that's a good thing to check.
The two AMP9-B amps I measured in that thread didn't get that hot that quickly in either AM mode or class T....
kyleaudio
10-Mar-11, 23:13
the two diodes on the bottom of the board? d25 and d26?
No, the little glass diodes...
kyleaudio
11-Mar-11, 15:40
yea, these two 1N4148 diodes on the bottom.
<edit> full size pic is here: http://i.imgur.com/Gn3sQ.jpg </edit>
http://i.imgur.com/Gn3sQ.jpg
Ah yes off course, the AMP9-PS has them on the bottom.... It's been a while since I last built one. Nowadays I always take the AMP9-B because I don't really like the toroid winding.
kyleaudio
11-Mar-11, 17:10
yea, those sure took some time! i'll replace those and see if it helps.
kyleaudio
12-Mar-11, 15:43
i just finished replacing the diodes, still the same...
Bummer....
Well, perhaps you can make some scope measurements of the switching waveform? If there is overshoot/ringing this can also cause overheating. This could then very well be caused by defective SMD diodes for the output clamping (the 16 pieces)....
Here's a healthy waveform:
http://www.snapdrive.net/files/361770/Truepath/aP1100401.JPG
And here's a ringing waveform:
http://www.snapdrive.net/files/361770/Truepath/aP1100399.JPG
These are waveforms I measured myself of audio transformers, so not exactly how the output of your amp should look. The reason I post these are purely to illustrate the effect.
Here's another good sheet of what you can see in a square waveform in audio:
http://users.tpg.com.au/users/ldbutler/WaveformsFig1.jpg
Source:http://users.tpg.com.au/users/ldbutler/Waveforms.htm
So that still isn't high frequent switching, but definitely interesting information... The principle is the same, only the effects and outcome can be a bit different.
This is by the way how I always measure lots of audio equipment for linearity or strange effects. Just feeding the input a square wave and analise how it stays square or not... Like preamps and mixers are very easily analised this way.
kyleaudio
12-Mar-11, 21:37
alright, it may take some time. i've wanted to get a scope and function generator for a while, i guess that this is a good excuse to finally get them! thanks for all of your help!
kyleaudio
20-Mar-11, 18:48
got my scope and function generator the other day and here are my readings. all 4 channels were about the same.
http://i.imgur.com/snJMf.jpg
i also did the same test with my TA2020 based amp that i had built a long time ago and it looked similar as well, but that amp doesnt have any problems and sounds just fine. not sure what that means for that amp.
Does look like some ringing/overshoot is present in the waveform.... Measurements did look a bit different on my AMP9-B, but that could be the scope/probe....
http://i.imgur.com/rtcXr.jpg
I can measure it again, at work we have several scopes and probes....
Maybe not a bad idea to preventively swap the diodes...
kyleaudio
20-Mar-11, 20:28
alright, i'll be ordering some new diodes from digikey, not looking forward to replacing them tho, its pretty tight on the top!
i did test another amp the same way and the readings were pretty good, so im pretty sure that my scope, function generator and test leads are ok.
thanks for all of your help tho!
I have to admit I never had such a problem so I never deeply analised it either. Could be a million things causing this, but I still don't think it is the Tripath chip itself...
kyleaudio
21-Mar-11, 00:13
well lets hope that the diodes are the problem!
kyleaudio
23-Mar-11, 23:13
the new diodes came in the mail today, i put them in very carefully, checked them with a meter a few times to make sure that nothing was shorted and there was good continuity where there should be. plugged it in and still the same... so i hooked it up to my scope again and the signal was the same, this time i took some more time to play around with different frequencies, the higher the frequency goes the more oscillation there is. heres what i'm seeing.
~1kHz
http://i.imgur.com/5lwmk.jpg
~4kHz
http://i.imgur.com/3MD2r.jpg
~10kHz
http://i.imgur.com/oWWtZ.jpg
when i keep going up at around 12kHz or so it looks like a sign wave. as i go higher from there, it gets bigger (more voltage) and then at a point it comes back down, but says a sign wave. not sure if that means anything or not, but thats what its doing.
thanks, kyle.
That looks like some serious ringing!! Looks as if the output filter isn't working properly or something alike...
With input transformers I got a nice and square wave again after adding a zobel....
kyleaudio
24-Mar-11, 20:14
yea, lots of ringing up in the higher frequencies... if the output filter werent working, could that somehow make the chip hot?
i was just down messing with it, and i found that if i leave the amp muted, the chip stays cool (at the most it got luke warm to the touch). when i un-mute it it starts getting hot and muting again will let the chip cool down. not sure if that could mean anything or not.
It just confirms that it is in the switching where it goes wrong. It is well possible that it is caused by a faulty TAA4100A chip, because this is a typical thing happening from damaged mosfets of incorrect functioning mosfets, or a problem with the modulator.... The output filter is definitely also suspect, but that's easy enough to measure if all parts connect to it well.
Yet it is a strange thing that all channels are eqaully suffering from this phenomenon....
kyleaudio
25-Mar-11, 01:47
i just removed all of the inductors and made sure that there werent any stray lead clippings or anything hiding under there, wasnt anything. while i had them out, i re soldered all of the joints in the output filter circuit just to be sure, made sure it was all very clean. put it all together and still the same readings on all channels and still nice and hot.
i guess i'll have to order a new chip and see if that fixes the problem. hopefully it will. i wonder if this chip was bad in the first place? it's done this since the first time i powered it up?
well again, thanks for all of your help v-bro!
Don't mention it...
If you want to desolder it the easy way and with minimal chance of damage to the board I recommend using Chipquik. It also ensure super easy hole clearing.... They even sell that stuff at Newark now!
kyleaudio
25-Mar-11, 12:24
that stuff is pretty cool! i've always thought that it'd be easier on the pads if you could melt solder at a lower temperature.
When you've tried it you can't understand how you ever done without it!!
Just after removing the chip you gently tap the board on your desk and all holes will be clear, if not, the second try it will...
kyleaudio
05-Apr-11, 00:38
Good news! I put the new chip in and it doesnt get too hot anymore! i played through a few songs at a normal listening volume without a heat sink it stayed at about 97f. i hooked it up to the func gen and scope and the square wave still looks exactly the same as before. i wonder if this is normal?
i did try the chip quick, and it didnt really help much, it didnt really seem to flow down into the holes too well. i ended up breaking off the chip and pulling each pin individually, i didnt want to damage the board trying to de solder all of them. i'm sure that it would work great if those holes werent so small tho.
It takes some practise... But I've used it on smaller holes, like the TA3020 chip on a Truepath....
Trick is to remove most normal solder first with desolder wick and then add a hint of Chipquik and stir it around for a while gently wiggeling the chip.... At a certain point it will just come out nicely and even clearing the holes is very easy done by slight heating and tapping the board genty on to something.
Wel, good thing that it plays cool now!! Well done!
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