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Wow! I was wondering why it sounded lousy and clipped at moderate level. That made all the difference in the world! And much cooler too!

Glad I check in once in a while :)

Thanks,

Bear

Say what Vbro? The AM mode jumper should be jumped? I thought doing that put it into class A/B.

Bear

Marc,

I decided to solder mine in, and if your in the USA, I got mine from Mouser, part# 737-ICM-648-T-1-GT . It was a little skinny and had to split it down the middle and solder the two halfs.
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Very interesting. I didn't know that!



There are ways of adjusting the shootthrough using the BBM1 and BBM0 pins I believe.


Thanks for the reply. I hope others give their experiences...

Any thoughts before I solder a socket for the chip on my Truepath board?

Sound degredation?

30 volts? Your at absolute max values there. Put it down to 26v or less.

Hopefully you didn't fry anything.

B-Col, I used the standard 24v kit.

V-Bro, I'm glad you like this amp as much as I do! I'm working on the PC version as we speak. Should be great with the smd inductors!

Wow..I have no idea if that can be done with care. Is this the second amp that was working? Or the first one?

Sorry, I have been away from a computer the last week.

B-Col, Yes, I'm using mine with 8ohm speakers and it sounds great.

B-Col, Yes, I'm using mine with 8ohm speakers and it sounds great.

Yes, you are correct. Pin 10 and 12 should be hooked together and tied to pin 13 to unmute. Rrefer to this post... http://www.41hz.com/Forums/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=713

All that R10 is doing, is...

Are you getting 5 volts between your two mute pins (J10 pins 10 and 12)? The fault Fet(U3)led, which is pin 15 on J10 is not used and that's what R12 is hooked to, so it shouldn't matter I think.

According to the schematics, R12 should be 2.2K and R10 should be 100 ohm. Are you sure your meter is on the right scale? Batteries are good on your meter?

It sounds like you have a bad chip. They are pretty sensitive about electrostatic stuff.

I do recommend this amp however. It's a great amp! I'm listening to the Amp32 right now and with the...

Go to this link http://www.41hz.com/Forums/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=444
and scroll down to the post by Pairair and there are some links. It is a simple Opa 2134 based preamp that sounds very good with...

Also, I am using a regulated power supply and have bypassed the onboard bridge. I jumpered the bridge as shown on the photo here.
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Measure your voltage from the rectifier bridge at the + and - solder points. Other than under voltage, you could have a bad chip. That's the only other thing I can think of. You can get another chip...

I don't have anything in U3. Mine only came with two FETS and they go in U4-5. Try taking U3 out.

Try re-soldering your chip and make sure there is no flux on anything. Wash the board off good on both sides with alcohol and an old toothbrush.

The Bridge rectifier, if your using it.

No, It does not matter which way L9 goes. What voltage are you running?

Make sure the Bridge is the right way around, all electrolytic's are oriented correct too and diodes are soldered and...

For those who experience humm with your amps when using a metal case, make sure the pot shaft or nuts are not grounded to chassis ground.

If you have humm or buzz, try unbolting the pot from the...

John and to whoever else that builds Jans amps, I just ran into an interesting solution to a hum.

I have mine AMP9 in a metal case that is earth grounded with a 10ohm resistor and everything is...

John, My board is not accessible anymore so I can't help you. Post your question to Jan on the Support Section.

yes.