Power requirements

[katit]

I want to have AMP9 instead of my head unit in Car for now.

I have factory power rated at 10A right there. Will it be fine for AMP9 or not? I think it will because I didn't see any problem with 7.5A PS at home, but want some expierenced advice.

I will have separate power line when I will be ready for CarPC, but for now I have jack with power and speaker wires and it will be nice if I can use it..

I want to short SLEEP to +5 permanently and have AMP9 connected to ACC line (when ignition on) and I will use MUTE switch to power it on with no thump. Does it sound like a good plan?

It won't draw any power when car off and it will not make "thump" when I switch it on.

[V-bro]

At the lower voltage the amp won't deliver as much power. It will also draw less current. I use a 12V 8A supply and it stays cool....

[katit]

It's playing in a car! Loud and clear. Well. Not clear. There is distortion, but it looks like speakers giving out.

[V-bro]

What speakers do you use?

I have 10 drivers in total in my car, all 8 ohms, but in parallel to create 4 ohms...

------X-max. can be several meters on any driver, too bad it can be done only once...------

[katit]

I paralleled 2 pairs inputs/outputs to drive Clarion speakers
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-us8kbo7...p?i=020SRS1625

Also, Today while driving (with only those connected) I realized that I don't like it overall. Sound clear and could be loud. But there is no bass at all. It's just plays like radio
I don't hear any good thumps..

And it's not like I need sub. My factory audio in BMW delivers nice sound as is. Enough bass for me...

[V-bro]

Could be true, but filtering away the bass from the drivers that play bass-mid can clean up the midrange area a lot! I use a sub, but I don't let it 'thump' too much, just cean dry bass to fill up that bottom end....

My 10cm/4" Monacor SP-60 drivers sound really good when the cone doesn't move too much from the bass, I filter everything away under 100hz... Now I actually have 'soundstage', something that's not easy to achieve in such a claustrofobic listeningspace...

At work we have VW vans, the latest. At first I liked the factory soundsystem a lot, but the bass is foney. This happens because all the panels are made of plastic. The economical wallthickness on top of that makes the lower frequencies completely messed up.

They should have added a few pieces of self-adhesive bitumen. I love to use this stuff in cars. Makes large metal surfaces acoustically 'dead' as well. I made the sound of Fiat Panda doors sound like BMW doors when slammed shut. Manufacturers of cars most of the times don't even bother to add foam behind the speakers...

------X-max. can be several meters on any driver, too bad it can be done only once...------

[katit]

I have 94 RX7 - Hard to find smaller car
I used Fatmat (self-adhesive) in doors. And I completely sealed doors inside. It closes better then my BMW

But car is still so loud and I have to turn up volume to the point that distortion starts. Will see what pre-amp will do and go from there. Another problem that I don't have space for subs and stuff. I'm thinking maybe 6 inch Bazooka tube sub will do. My initial plan was to fit CarPC with power supply and AMP9 in double-din case. But if it heats up so much... May think about routing hose from AC box through the amp/pc enclosure and put fan on other side.

I have space for rear speakers and I have small center speaker. Maybe I should use them and see if it improves soundstage.

[V-bro]

I've posted this here and there before, but audio signal is AC so you can use an audiotransformer to boost up the gain....(providing the source can deliver enough current)It also avoids ground loop problems...

I think you should get rearspeakers and let them play only bass, make a sub out of them....It's not only my preference to have mids and highs only from two points. By adding mids/highs to the rear you'll have interference going wild and get combfiltering effects all over the place....

By placing a 6.8K resistor in series to the input of your AMP9 and a 1uF filmcap parallel you can have 6db/oct. lowpass at ~100hz....

------X-max. can be several meters on any driver, too bad it can be done only once...------

[katit]

quote:Originally posted by V-bro
[br]I've posted this here and there before, but audio signal is AC so you can use an audiotransformer to boost up the gain....(providing the source can deliver enough current)It also avoids ground loop problems...

I don't seem to have ground loop problems. I will try to borrow headphones amplifier and see if it actually helps and then will do audio transformer if results are goos.

quote:I think you should get rearspeakers and let them play only bass, make a sub out of them....

This is what I really wanted to do, since I want stock looking setup. But I can only fit 5x7 in there and I dont see woofers in this size, only coaxical speakers

quote:By placing a 6.8K resistor in series to the input of your AMP9 and a 1uF filmcap parallel you can have 6db/oct. lowpass at ~100hz....

I should do it on input? Not before those speakers?

[V-bro]

5x7 menaing you can only fit something oval in there?

The lowpass can be on the amp input indeed, the values can be experimented with, but will provide a good starting point.

Here's the theory:
http://www.t-linespeakers.org/tech/f...ssiveHLxo.html

------X-max. can be several meters on any driver, too bad it can be done only once...------