I just posted this somewhere else and realised this really belongs here (to test the soldering of the diodes after you're done):
"Measuring diodes is best done by measuring the board, not on the diodes otherwise you're not really judging the soldering. First measure a bare diode in both directions to give you an idea of what your meter does, how it responds. This should be done on either a specific diode setting or simply on resistance(ohms)/conductvity(beep) setting on your multimeter.
Then place on probe in the holes next to the diodes that are for the big electrolytic caps (these are parallel to the railvoltage and the diodes are clamped between pos and neg rail in pairs meeting on the speaker traces in the middle) Start with the positive capacitor hole. Measure with the other probe on the dots of solder on the opposite side of the board than where the diodes are (the points where the diode pairs meet in the middle) and do the whole row one by one to see if they measure alike. Then place the other probe in the same capacitor hole and do the row of middlepoint dots again, this time the meter responds like measuring a diode in opposite direction.
Then do the same measurements with the probe in the other capacitor hole (the negative). The measurements should again all be alike, but when probes are swapped they all again measure like the diode is measured in the other direction.
Most meters measure best in conductivity setting (or "beep" setting) In one direction you get a short beep, in the other mostly it doesn't, but gives an ohmic value like say 400 ohms (this can be different, but they should be more or less alike)
That's all to it! "
------X-max. can be several meters on any driver, too bad it can be done only once...------