Amp1B to PS1 connection

[thespartan]

Hi All,

Can anyone show me details and/or illustrations on how to connect Amp1B to PS1?

Please include details on what to do to connect Amp1B to VPP, VNN and PGND in J3 and to 5V and AGND in J2.
There are 2 AGNDs in J2. I assume one is for the 5V and the other for the Inputs? But how do you make the actual connections for each? Where is the 5V out on PS1?
I'm getting an Antek AN3232 (32V 300VA) as tranny. Is this the right one? I got 8ohm bookshelf speakers. Where do you connect the tranny on PS1? It's got 2 green and 2 blue wires for 32V. Also, it's got 2 red and 2 black wires for the Mains.
Also, please include prescribed wire sizes and maximum/minimum distances between the Amp board and the PS1 and the Inputs and Outputs.
Oh my, I'm that ignorant of the world of electronics. I even have to spend 20 min on the internet to figure out what's a 2.5 mm jumper for J1. But I got that one eh.

Getting there slowly but surely.

Thanks!

[V-bro]

32V is too high, after AC is rectified the voltage in DC is times 1.41

So to get 32Vdc you need a 22Vac transformer...

The connections should be in the PS1 documents, or aren't they?

------X-max. can be several meters on any driver, too bad it can be done only once...------

[thespartan]

thanks v-bro.
22V? isn't that for 4ohm speakers? tell me a little about getting rectified. i can can surf the rest.
PS1 documents? where? this (below) plus the schematics was all i got from 41 Hz Support.
i know it's probably enough for the learned but certainly not for me. i suspect some ikea chairs may have a longer assembly manuals.


PS1
===

1) Errata
=======
Please note there is one error on the PCB.
The trace is from the positive side of C50 to
pin 9 of Q8. This trace must be cut.

2) Q8 logic
========
Q8 is a logic circuit with 8 inputs.
All inputs must be low for the relay to close.
You acn typically connect these to any 5V alarm
or mute signal that goes high when the amp
should be muted / relays turned off.

On 41Hz amps, typically connect the amplifier
HMUTE output to one of the Q8 logic inputs.
This will open the relays when the amp is muted
for whatever reason.

Unused Inputs to Q8 should not be left open,
as there is no internal pulldown for them. Unused
pins can be either tied to ground or to another
active input. Note that pin 9 as described above,
is also an input, and is best tied to pin 10.
(pin 8 is not connected)

3) Relay voltage
============
The two relays are connected in series. They are
12V relays, needing a combined 24V. The
value of R11 determines the voltage over the relays.
You may need to select another value for this resistor.
The relays will operate from around 18V to 26V. With
higher voltages, the relay coil will run warmer than
recommended.

4) Grounding
==========
The board has four different grounds:
- One for the left hand power section (left with relays up)
- One for the right hand power section (right with relays up)
- One for the analogue / 5V section
- Earth/ground (the four mounting holes in the corners and the "ground
plane" of the board).

The two sides of the board are fully independent. You can use them for
either positive/negative or as two positive rails. They are NOT
connected to ground earth.

The "right hand" power section is supplying the 5V section.
The 5V section can be grounded to the right hand section.
Normally, with 41Hz amp, the power and analogue section
are connected on the amplifier board and grounded there.

However, for testing the PS1 board stand-alone, you will need
to ground the analogue section, and that can be done by closing
the J10 jumper AND connecting the right hand side supply
to board earth.

When using PS1 connected to a 41Hz audio amplifier,
J10 is best left open, as grounding of the analogue
section will be via J5, and analogue groud to power ground
and earth is achieved on the amplifier board.

Normally, J30, J31, J32 and J33 should be left OPEN.

There is a separate schematic, explaining different grounding
options.


5) 5V
====
The 5V is needed for the onboard logic and the relay driver.
It can also supply 5V to boards that do not have their own 5V
supply (AMP1, AMP1-B, Truepath etc)

IMPORTANT do not connect J5, pin 5 IF the PS1 5V section
AND the amplifier both have a 5V regulator. Use one or the
other or keep this pin open.


6) Setting LM317 voltages
=====================
The voltage requlator is in two-stages for best performance.
The firrts (Q10) tajes voltage from the positive rail and regulates
it down to aroun 9V, the second (Q1) from 9V to 5V.
The actual value is not critical, as long as it is between
4.8 and 5.2V, but it is critical for Truepath based
amplifiers that the voltage is stable (if this
voltage is used to supply the amplifier board).

The output voltage of the LM317 are set by the ratio of the two
resistors. For Q 10 the voltage is U = 1.25x((R12/R13)+1) and for
Q1 U = 1.25x((R51/R52+1)
Typical values of R52 and R13 could be 82 ohms to 270 ohms.
In the kit, both are 120 ohms, while R12 is the 750 ohms
and R51 is 360 ohms. Other combinations can be used with
the same result.

[V-bro]

Nope 22Vac is 32Vdc after the rectifier...

With this amp this is of course + and - 32Vdc... which is a nice voltage for 8 ohm speakers...

http://antekinc.com/AN-2222.pdf

------X-max. can be several meters on any driver, too bad it can be done only once...------

[V-bro]

Or this one:

http://antekinc.com/AN-3222.pdf

24Vac would also work, but 32Vac would really make your amp a one way smoke machine

------X-max. can be several meters on any driver, too bad it can be done only once...------

[t_ams1st]

Aww, shoot, just made the same mistake today, ordered 225VA + 2x35v, hopefully I'll catch them in time to change the order!

A bit more info re connections would be very helpful as the info with the PS1 is pretty sparse.

Cheers

[thespartan]

great! i almost got smoked there. thanks!

[V-bro]

I'm gonna get a PS1 myself and dive into those documents as soon as I've got the time for it.

------X-max. can be several meters on any driver, too bad it can be done only once...------

[mikechw]

I ordered a PS1 earlier, but haven't built it yet..

I should be building it tonight for my dual mono AMP11.
I won't be using the 5V section of it, but I will try to study it...

Should give you more info tomorrow.

[mikechw]

I have finished building PS1 for my dual AMP11.

1) Errata
=======
Traces Pin 9 of Q8 to C50 need to be cut, since C50's pin is +ve, it will pull high and mute the relay otherwise.

2) Q8 logic
========
Actually there is only 6 inputs left for J5.
From right to left,
pin 4 of J5 is ground.
pin 3 is 5V from 5V section.
So if you are not using additional mute logic, just short all the other pins to pin4.
I will be using all 6 of them.
1st AMP11-LV use HMUTE, OVERLOAD, FAULT,
2nd AMP11-LV use HMUTE, OVERLOAD, FAULT
..... I think I will omit THERMAL, since its less useful.
When I have led connected to the pin, I see HMUTE and FAULT lights up, when I turn off AMP11.

3) Relay voltage
============
I have a 220 ohm resistor left from the kit.
29V rail voltage I m using.
I checked the relay's coil resistance and its 360ohm
360ohm x 2 = 720 ohm.
So the relay will experience 29V / ( 720 / 720 + 220 )) = 22V

If you are not using the relay, I think you can leave those unmounted.

LM317 voltage
============

Just follow the BOM and installed all the resistors, you will get 5V.
A 675ohm resistor was in my kit instead of 750, but it doesn't matter.