with the soldering wick I pulled a pad of the power chip

[krempel]

I hope I got lucky and that pin (VCC1a - the first one from the left in the picture) is connected to it's neughbours and I can just create a solder bridge? Tha'ts how I understand the schematic.

[V-bro]

No worries mate, this pin has no function...

I would check where it went though, hold the board against some light to see if it isn't still there shorting something...

[krempel]

Thank you very much! I will look into the board's nooks and crannies for the pad.

It was quite a fight but I hope I the first test turns out OK. I already lost two resistors and a cap though. :P

[Scratchy]

I already lost two resistors and a cap though. :P

Welcome to the world of SMT :-D

Have a look at how Audiophool does it.
He makes it look like childs play in the video.
http://www.maedos.com/Guideline.html...SMT_Components

[krempel]

Thanks, I looked at the site. By the way I managed to mount Q10 backwards (only glancing at the picture in the AI). OH well.

[V-bro]

Hi, I can send you a tiny stick of chipquik to try, this enables you to remove the chip in working condition and place it on the correct way...

[Haggis Basher]

I already lost two resistors and a cap though.

Dear krempel,

The best way to avoid smt components flying about the bench, and indeed the room, is to use Audiophool’s sticky wand system. After a little practice, I now use it for all smt soldering, including 0805 components onto switched attenuators.

I also follow his advice regarding the setting out of smt components, on a sheet of card board taped to the bench, with double sided tape securing the component packets. Only then do I remove the transparent covers, and use the wand to place them ready for a quick solder tack.

I now have two sets of high quality tweezers, which are no longer used for smt work!

Ken.

[krempel]

Hi, I can send you a tiny stick of chipquik to try, this enables you to remove the chip in working condition and place it on the correct way...

Thank you, but I think I'll manage to remove it with a solder pump - I achieved simialr errors while building a PIMETA.

Dear krempel,

The best way to avoid smt components flying about the bench, and indeed the room, is to use Audiophool’s sticky wand system. After a little practice, I now use it for all smt soldering, including 0805 components onto switched attenuators.

I also follow his advice regarding the setting out of smt components, on a sheet of card board taped to the bench, with double sided tape securing the component packets. Only then do I remove the transparent covers, and use the wand to place them ready for a quick solder tack.

I now have two sets of high quality tweezers, which are no longer used for smt work!

Ken.

I did send the first part flying by squeezing with the tweezers too much, but I hope I learned not to do it anymore. There is no need to exert a lot of force to the tweezers anyway. I like the control I got with them.
The other parts got lost when my new PCB holder got loose - I pay attention to that that now.


I'm not having any 330µF caps for C50 and C51 in bag one though. Should I use the 150µF, which are there?

[V-bro]

Have it your way, I desolder and solder parts every day and have the finest equipment at hand, yet NOTHING comes close to the ease of chipquik. All my colleagues use it too now, and the success rate has gone up considerably...

I've come to the point now where I can say it's just plain stupid not to use it...

Even for through hole parts, after pulling out the DIL48 package it's just a single gentle tap on the table with the board and all the holes are freaking clear!!!!

Oh well...

As for the caps, it's fine as long as the voltage is the same....

Good luck!

[krempel]

Thanks again!