Aluminium speaker?

[gnome]

I also work a lot with aluminium and you CAN use pretty standard cutting tools when you apply little splashes of Methylene alcohol (called 'Spiritus' here in the Netherlands) to the cutting face. It will keep the tools clean and keep them cutting like they did when they were new...

It's a little trick of the trade, try it out!

In English it's called called methylated spirits, and it is ethanol mixed with about 10% of another alcohol, predominantly methanol (hence the methylated), to make it undrinkable, there is actually a substance called methylene but it is highly unstable.

And I have tried methylated spirits after hearing that it is good for working with aluminium, but I found it only a marginal improvement, the only nice thing I could say about it it that it doesn't leave the aluminium greasy, and yes it is better than working dry, but the problem is that the aluminium wants to melt and stick to the tool, and the only way to do that is to apply an oil like a penetrative lubricant eg WD40 for sawing, and wax for drilling, the wax is particularly effective for reasons that are not clear to me, maybe because it only just melts and doesn't evaporate and then resolidifies on the tool, but it is almost miraculous, can't even tell you a brand, I get it from a tool shop in Germany when I'm there, a small cylinder lasts for years. I promise it will change your life.
I know the company Format sell one
so any of these retailers that carry Format I would imagine would have at least something like it
http://www.format-tools.com/de/fachhaendler/

[gnome]

Thanks for all the advices.
Need to find a place with CNC machines now.
And can it bring any problem to put the TA2020 from the amp6 directly on the aluminium (for cooling) which will also be the speaker? Meaning that people can electrically speaking touch the TA2020?
The amp will be powered by battery and by external power supply (not at the same time...)

best practise is that you put a non conductive material between the heat slug and the case
not sure what you mean by cooling the speaker with the case, it would only do so an insignificant amount, and from the amp6 heat is not an issue anyway.

[roubi]

It is more about cooling the amp6 with the case, not the speaker. The amp6 doesn't get very hot, indeed, but I am using my sound stuff in very hot places (like mainly in Africa where it can get very hot under the sun). So I am thinking, the more I allow it to get cold, the better. And it can not harm it, can it?

What kind of non conductive material do you use? So I guess non conductive for electricity but conductive for heat?
Right now, I am using this kind of material : http://www.ldlc.com/fiche/PB00107695.html
I don't how we call it in english but it is meant for processors, and it works well, but I don't think it is a non conductive material...

[gnome]

It is more about cooling the amp6 with the case, not the speaker. The amp6 doesn't get very hot, indeed, but I am using my sound stuff in very hot places (like mainly in Africa where it can get very hot under the sun). So I am thinking, the more I allow it to get cold, the better. And it can not harm it, can it?

What kind of non conductive material do you use? So I guess non conductive for electricity but conductive for heat?
Right now, I am using this kind of material : http://www.ldlc.com/fiche/PB00107695.html
I don't how we call it in english but it is meant for processors, and it works well, but I don't think it is a non conductive material...

the problem with paste is that you can't be sure that the heat slug isn't making contact with the case, even when it is electrically non conductive, when you tighten it up, so something more solid is called for, but not massively more so,
any plastic film will do really, as long as it is thin, then the thermal conductivity itself becomes immaterial,
try a piece of plastic bag.
If the aluminium you are using is anodized then you don't even have to worry about that.

[roubi]

Thanks a lot !

[Gben-Chalice]

With ally sheet the best way is tig welding, although if your joint has a good surface area a slow setting epoxy would work ( with epoxies the slower setting types are usually stronger). If you spend the time to work up the pattern so as to get most of the corners to be folds rather than welds the box is stronger. 7000 sieries aluminium is my recomendation for any hobby stuff as it air hardens a
fter heating( 400 c°+)

[Gben-Chalice]

Wow genome, that is a sweet bin

[krilli]

Wow, great info gben-chalice! I really appreciate it.

And yes, gnome, that is a wicked cool speaker - what's in it and what is it used for?

[gnome]

And yes, gnome, that is a wicked cool speaker - what's in it and what is it used for?

It's a Bill Fitzmaurice two-way PA top, it contains one 8" PA driver namely an Eminence Beta 8A and the tweeters are 16 piezos glued together, it's essentially a "w-bin" designed for maximum sensitivity. But really take note of the method, laser cutting the pieces easily saved a week of work, I'm seriously trying to justify getting my own laser cutter it is so compelling.

[Gben-Chalice]

I hear you genome, or a waterjet cutter...the wost thing about the WWW is being able to find out JUST how far out of reach some cool stuff is. Mind you, a CAM plasma cutter table is pretty affordable.