putting together amp-6 basic sneaky. help plz

[dukanvadet]

I'm putting together my new amp-6 basic sneaky. I'm probaply not really good enough at soldering to do this but i like challenges so I did anyway .

The first thing I'm going to ask about is this:
d8201295613PM253b.jpg
I lost one of my 8.2 K-ohm resistors and made this out of some resistors i had lying around. Is it as retarded as it looks? It measures 8.19 K-ohm on my multimeter. Propably going to replace it later anyway just want it up and running Wrapped it in heatshrink as seen on the next picture.

And here is that:
592012100338Pf6a9.jpg

Where do I mount the line-level input signal. right, left and shield? I'm just going to solder the cable right on there.

It was hard to solder the connectors of the tripath chip. I would propably have to resolder the hole thing, any tips to get the solder to flow trough to the other side? Could i just put some extra solder on from the other side?

Is it ok to just solder the fuse right on there like I did?. I have ordered a 20mm fuse holder to make it more european standard, but it havent arrived yet.

EDIT:Ordered a new resistor so I dont need all that junk

[tuo]

Well, I'd suspect that resistor thingie will work as intended; resistor value of resistors in a serie is a sum of those resistors.

The input goes to the J5/J50. The shield (ground) in the middle (marked with 2 dash lines), the channels on the edges.

And yes, amp6 takes a quite lot of heat for proper soldering and even more, when working with the large ground plane. A more powerful soldering iron makes the task easier. With a less powerful iron you'll have to heat the PCB more before adding the solder. Extra flux can also be helpful as flux is the thing that makes the solder to spread evenly. The solder already contains flux, but it will vaporize during the soldering on the heated iron. So remember to clean the tip of your soldering iron before a new pad, as the old solder will suck the flux out of the new and then there's too little flux for the solder to spread evenly.

Here's a good video:
http://www.eevblog.com/2011/07/02/ee...torial-part-2/

HTH

[dukanvadet]

Well, I'd suspect that resistor thingie will work as intended; resistor value of resistors in a serie is a sum of those resistors.

The input goes to the J5/J50. The shield (ground) in the middle (marked with 2 dash lines), the channels on the edges.

And yes, amp6 takes a quite lot of heat for proper soldering and even more, when working with the large ground plane. A more powerful soldering iron makes the task easier. With a less powerful iron you'll have to heat the PCB more before adding the solder. Extra flux can also be helpful as flux is the thing that makes the solder to spread evenly. The solder already contains flux, but it will vaporize during the soldering on the heated iron. So remember to clean the tip of your soldering iron before a new pad, as the old solder will suck the flux out of the new and then there's too little flux for the solder to spread evenly.

Here's a good video:
http://www.eevblog.com/2011/07/02/ee...torial-part-2/

HTH

Ifound the resistor. I soldered it to R1 for some reason :S I also solved the soldering on the tripath by heating up my iron a bit more. thanks for the help

My new problem is that the amp does not work at all. I've measured 12v with right polarity at input and the fuse but there is nothing at D1 means that the diod is dead? can you make out if the diod it self is working with a multimeter?

Edit: found a diode testing function on my multimeter. it says 107 when i'm measuring the diode, have no idea what that means It says i should be measuring voltage drop but I hope it isn't putting 107v trough that little thing?

EDIT2: resoldered the fuse sdiode and some other things that needed touching up and now I got 12v after the diode. Also have 5v on c2. 1.10 at r7 and 12v on c5 what does that mean? The tripath chip is dead?

[juanito]

Well, I'd suspect that resistor thingie will work as intended; resistor value of resistors in a serie is a sum of those resistors.

The input goes to the J5/J50. The shield (ground) in the middle (marked with 2 dash lines), the channels on the edges.

And yes, amp6 takes a quite lot of heat for proper soldering and even more, when working with the large ground plane. A more powerful soldering iron makes the task easier. With a less powerful iron you'll have to heat the PCB more before adding the solder. Extra flux can also be helpful as flux is the thing that makes the solder to spread evenly. The solder already contains flux, but it will vaporize during the soldering on the heated iron. So remember to clean the tip of your soldering iron before a new pad, as the old solder will suck the flux out of the new and then there's too little flux for the solder to spread evenly.

Here's a good video:
http://www.eevblog.com/2011/07/02/ee...torial-part-2/

HTH

Hi, just one quick question, I'm planing to use this amp 6 with a switching power supply, 15V adjustable from 13v to 15v, do you know what amperage is good for theese amps
I see the fuse is 4 ampers so 3 amperes would be good or more...
Thanks
John

[tuo]

Hi, I use a SMPS myself. The SMPS has a selectable output voltage and gives out a maximum power of 36W or a maximum current of 3A with output voltages of 9V, 12V, 13.5V and 15V. I use it with the 13.5V setting (so, about 2.6A with that 36W limit) and 8 ohm speakers and there hasn't been any problems with this configuration. So if you'll have a SMPS like you suggested, it should work just fine.

[V-bro]

Forget about that, it's almost impossible to get that kind of inductor. I can send you one next tuesday if that is ok? I still have a few AMP6-B kits in stock and I still have some toroidal inductors that I can make fit, nice experiment...

[juanito]

Hi,
I've almost got my amp6 basic done. Inductors werer OK! Sorry
Just a couple of quick questions with amp6 sneaky 1.2 board:
1- About J5 signal conections. I want to do the common RCA's: there are six holes. 3 of them are touching the big square J5; the other 3 are smaller, allingned together and they are inside J5. I think these are J50? So how do I connect to a couple of signal cables?
2- About J3 and J6. Are these the same for connecting the power supply? Why one has one hole and other has three? I want to connect a smps, so I'll solder directly the cable: wich holes do I use?

Thanks a lot in advance

John

[tuo]

1. Yep, Those small ones are J50, a new smaller connection in this new revision board. When you connect the cables, you need to connect the earth for both channels together, and then connect the signal for the both channels on their own. The earth is in the middle, marked with a dashed line and the channels on the sides. If you are using RCA:s, then earth is on the outer ring, the positive for the channel is in the middle.

2. Yes, they are the same. The three holes connection one has a positive hole, a negative hole and one hole, that's not connected but is used so that the soldering fixes the power jack better. If you are using cables directly to the board, you can use the 2 hole one.

[juanito]

la foto-3.jpg
la foto-5.jpg
la foto-4.jpg
Ok here is my amp6, but no sound at all, not working. I realized after that one cap was not correctly positioned. I unsoldered, and then solder it again correctly. It was C2, the smallest black single cap. Also during soldering I had to unsolder 3 SMD diodes because polarity positioning. But this was before testing today.
I just wonder what is wrong now. unsoldering the diodes and soldering again may have affect?
also, the C2 ca, after testing and being bad positioned, does it mean is burnt now?
Can you tell any thing from pictures?

[gnome]

did you have the jumpers in place when you tested? there's nothing in the pictures